Aruba Animal Shelter

Pet Care

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• Taking Care of Dog

  1. Your dog may have been badly treated at its last home and so may be insecure and frightened. Any ordinary actions may be misinterpreted as threatening or harmful. Try not to make any sudden movements or raise your voice until your dog is more settled.
  2. Almost certainly your dog will not have had as much love and training as it needs, a lot of patience will be required.
  3. Regular grooming will ensure a healthy coat and skin. Checks should be made every few weeks for fleas and use a flea treatment on a regular basis as recommended by the manufacturer.
  It is also a good idea to regularly check your dog's eyes and ears, these areas can indicate the beginning of many doggy problems. If you see anything unusual, see your Vet.

  Training tips

  Lead training and free runs
  When your dog first comes home it is unlikely that you will know how he will behave on a lead, and more importantly how well he will return when he is off the lead. The following hints may be of use to you.
  Once the five days have elapsed after the second vaccination you can take your dog out on a lead. However it would not be advisable to let him off the lead yet. If the dog seems to want to be further from you for a bit of privacy when he is relieving himself, you can tie a long piece of washing line to his lead. This will enable him to exercise better and to have a little privacy if he feels the need.
  Using this very long lead (away from the roads of course) you can test his willingness to come back to you. When he is at the furthest extent of the lead call him back in a friendly tone using his name and a simple one word command, e.g. "Sandy come". Every time he correctly completes the exercise give him a small treat. If he does not oblige at first do not scold him just try again. With patience and understanding you will very soon be able to let him off the lead with complete confidence and be the envy of the other dog owners who are frantically yelling at their dog to no avail! Incidentally it is a good idea to practice recall during the middle of your walk so that he does not associate returning to you with the end of his play time, otherwise he could get the idea that he is being punished for coming back to you.
  Remember he must associate returning to you with a pleasurable experience not under any circumstances with a blow. If you have difficulty getting him back on the lead, by far the best method of disciplining him is to totally ignore him once he is back on the lead, take him home and do not speak to him or stroke him. After fifteen to twenty minutes you will have to pretend that it never happened. The reasoning behind this method is that the one thing your dog most wants from you, even more than food, is your love and attention. Therefore just by temporarily withdrawing your attention you can control your dog without causing him any trauma. The reverse of this is also true, the best way of rewarding your dog is to award him with your attention rather than a treat.
  
  Toilet training
  This is the area where new dog owners, especially owners of rescue dogs, have the most problems. These problems can all be overcome by the application of a little discipline. This discipline is more needed with yourself than with the dog. Your dog needs to be able to rely on you just as much as you need to rely on him. He needs to know when he will be taken out and therefore how long he will have to wait to relieve himself The best way to make his life easy is to have a fixed routine that he can rely on. For example, a very good system would be to walk him three times a day, always at the same time.
  morning - after his breakfast if he is still having morning feeds
  teatime - once again after his meal
  evening - last thing before you go to bed
  With this routine to rely on he will soon get to understand how long he will have to wait before he will be able to relieve himself and will be able to establish a pattern. Just imagine the situation, if he knows that he will be going out in half an hour he will probably be able to cross his legs and wait, but if he has no idea when he will be going out he will get stressed and probably have an accident. If this happens remember it is your fault NOT HIS.
  
  Chewing and doggy vandalism
  Some dogs will resort to chewing and doggy type vandalism if they are bored or stressed. Obviously the way to prevent these things is to ensure that he does not get bored or stressed.
  There is no fixed rule that you can apply because every dog is different and the triggers that will cause this kind of behaviour will vary accordingly.
  One of the most common causes of chewing etc. is when the dog is left on his own in the house. As we have already said the thing that the dog most wants from you is your attention and presence, these are not available if you are out of the house. When you also consider that what is only a day to you seems like a week to a young dog because they have a totally different appreciation of time than us, it is understandable that a newly adopted rescue dog can get very stressed when it is left on its own. Especially as most rescue dogs come from homes that were less than ideal, which probably included being left on their own a lot.
  The most likely objects for it to chew are those which smell strongly of you, shoes and slippers come high on this list as do gear knobs and hand brake handles in the car.
  If your dog does start this kind of behaviour you must cure the cause of the problem and not concentrate on the symptoms. The symptom is the chewing, but the cause is the stress of your absence.
  You cannot be expected to never leave your dog on its own, but you can eventually reassure your dog that you will always come back and therefore cure his stress.
  This can be achieved by leaving your home for short periods of time only at first, starting with no more than two to three minutes and slowly working up to a full absence. If when you return the dog has not done any damage, make a big fuss of him, give him a treat and reassure him that you love him. If however he has done damage then you must totally ignore him, clear up the mess and get on with what you were doing. On the next occasion leave him for even less time until he eventually trusts you. Once you have his trust you can lengthen your absences slowly.
  An additional tip is to not make a fuss of your dog for at least ten to fifteen minutes before you leave the house. Remember he wants your attention more than anything, so if you give it to him and then cut if off abruptly he will think he is being punished and may react badly especially as he has done no wrong and knows it.
  If your dog does enjoy chewing, especially a young dog that might be teething, you would be well advised to buy him a "kong". This is a hard rubber toy which, if you buy the correct size, your dog will not be able to destroy. If you give him this only when you are out of the house it will be his special reward that he gets only in your absence, you must however pick it up on your return. It will give him some exercise, in fact most dogs will chew a kong until they get "jaw-ache" and fall asleep. A kong has another important benefit, it is hollow. This allows you to put some meat or biscuits inside in such a way that it will take him a very long time to get it out, especially if the meat is sticky. This will divert his attention during those vital minutes immediately after your departure.
  Remember more important than any advice we have given above is to love your dog and treat him with respect, he will reply in kind.
  
  If you have any problems with your new dog do not hesitate to contact us, we will do our best to help.

  Teeth and gums can be kept healthy by providing your dog with suitable chews and bones.
  Ensure that you walk your dog on a hard surface on a regular basis as this will keep the nails at a correct length.
  4. A bored dog is an unhappy dog. Treat your dog to plenty of exercise and games.
  5. Always supervise your dog when playing with children, other animals or strangers.

• Taking Care of a Cat

  How to hold your cat
  Most cats enjoy being held, although only on their terms. Usually a cat does not like being held for more than a short time. If you stroke the cat whilst you hold it, it will be reassured. Once it starts to struggle, let it down. If you hold a cat against its will, it may bite or scratch you.

  Litter training
  Place the litter tray in a quiet corner. When the kitten looks as if it is ready to use it - it will crouch with its tail raised - place it in the litter tray. A natural instinct will tell the kitten to cover up its faeces with the litter. If a kitten relieves itself outside the tray, never rub its nose in the mess - the odour will tell the kitten that this is its toilet area and it will return to it.

  Good scratching
  To stop your cat ruining your furniture by scratching it, provide it with a scratching post. When your cat starts scratching, place its paws on the post. A post with catnip added is ideal or a piece of bark.

  Allowing a new cat outdoors
  Keep the new cat indoors for at least 4 weeks, supervise the cat's first time outdoors, let the cat out just before a feed is due and when it is time to come back in, dish the cat's food out whilst calling the cat. This will give the cat a routine, this should be done at the same time every day.

  Grooming
  Although cats groom themselves we advise you groom your cat as well. Shorthaired cats should be groomed once a week. Longhaired cats should be groomed every day. This is beneficial to a cat's circulation as it reduces the risk of fur balls.

  Health Check
  Home Medical:
  Coat - look for scratches, fleas, baldness, reddening to the skin and increased shedding of fur.
  Ears - look for brown wax, discharge, swelling and head held to one side.
  Eyes - look for discharge, inflammation of the eye lid and third eye lid.
  Teeth - look for drooling, inflamed gums and bad breath.
  Nose - look for discharge, listen for persistent sneezing and laboured breathing.
  Sickness and/or diarrhoea. If you notice any of these symptoms consult your vet.
  Please remember that if you have any problems we are glad to assist. We hope you will be very happy with your new friend; remember if the cat learns to be able to rely on you for what he or she needs from life, i.e. clean litter tray and regular food, you will soon be able to rely on your cat.

• Spay and Neuter

  Why you should spay or neuter your pet What do "spay" and "neuter" really mean? Female dogs and cats are spayed by removing their reproductive organs, and male dogs and cats are neutered by removing their testicles. In both cases the operation is performed while the pet is under anesthesia. Depending on your pet's age, size, and health, he or she will stay at your veterinarian's office for a few hours or a few days. Depending upon the procedure, your pet may need stitches removed after a few days. Your veterinarian can fully explain spay and neuter procedures to you and discuss with you the best age at which to sterilize your pet. Spaying or Neutering Is Good for Your Pet Spaying and neutering helps dogs and cats live longer, healthier lives. Spaying and neutering can eliminate or reduce the incidence of a number of health problems that can be very difficult or expensive to treat. Spaying eliminates the possibility of uterine or ovarian cancer and greatly reduces the incidence of breast cancer, particularly when your pet is spayed before her first estrous cycle. Neutering eliminates testicular cancer and decreases the incidence of prostate disease. Spaying or Neutering Is Good for You Spaying and neutering makes pets better, more affectionate companions. Neutering cats makes them less likely to spray and mark territory. Spaying a dog or cat eliminates her heat cycle. Estrus lasts an average of six to 12 days, often twice a year, in dogs and an average of six to seven days, three or more times a year, in cats. Females in heat can cry incessantly, show nervous behavior, and attract unwanted male animals. Unsterilized animals often exhibit more behavior and temperament problems than do those who have been spayed or neutered. Spaying and neutering can make pets less likely to bite. Neutering makes pets less likely to roam the neighborhood, run away, or get into fights. Spaying and Neutering Are Good for the Community Communities spend millions of dollars to control unwanted animals. Irresponsible breeding contributes to the problem of dog bites and attacks. Animal shelters are overburdened with surplus animals. Stray pets and homeless animals get into trash containers, defecate in public areas or on private lawns, and frighten or anger people who have no understanding of their misery or needs. Some stray animals also scare away or kill birds and wildlife. Health benefits of spaying & neutering Spayed animals no longer feel the need to roam to look for a mate. The result is that they stay home and have less chance of being involved in traumatic accidents such as being hit by a car. They also have a much lower incidence of contracting contagious diseases, and get into fewer fights. In males, neutering decreases the chances of developing prostatic disease and hernias, and eliminates the chances of developing testicular cancer. It also reduces problems with territorial and sexual aggression, inappropriate urination (spraying) and other undesirable male behaviors. In females, spaying decreases the incidence of breast cancer (the rate goes down to almost zero if the spaying is done before the first heat cycle!). It eliminates the chance of developing a serious and potentially fatal infection of the uterus experienced by many mature unspayed animals (pyometra). Spay surgery also eliminates the heat cycle and associated mood swings and undesirable behaviors, messy spotting (in dogs) and the attraction of all available males to your yard. The simple fact is that spaying and neutering greatly increases the lifespan of your pet and increases quality of life as well! Some myths about spaying & neutering MYTH: My pet will get fat and lazy. FACT: The truth is that most pets get fat and lazy because their owners feed them too much and don't give them enough exercise. MYTH: It's better to have one litter first. FACT: Medical evidence indicates just the opposite. In fact, the evidence shows that females spayed before their first heat are typically healthier. Many veterinarians now sterilize dogs and cats as young as eight weeks of age. Check with your veterinarian about the appropriate time for these procedures. MYTH: My children should experience the miracle of birth. FACT: Even if children are able to see a pet give birth - which is unlikely, since it usually occurs at night and in seclusion - the lesson they will really learn is that animals can be created and discarded as it suits adults. Instead, it should be explained to children that the real miracle is life and that preventing the birth of some pets can save the lives of others. MYTH: But my pet is a purebred. FACT: So is at least one out of every four pets brought to animal shelters around the country. There are just too many dogs and cats-mixed breed and purebred. MYTH: I want my dog to be protective. FACT: Spaying or neutering does not affect a dog's natural instinct to protect home and family. A dog's personality is formed more by genetics and environment than by sex hormones. MYTH: I don't want my male dog or cat to feel like less of a male. FACT: Pets don't have any concept of sexual identity or ego. Neutering will not change a pet's basic personality. He doesn't suffer any kind of emotional reaction or identity crisis when neutered. MYTH: But my dog (or cat) is so special, I want a puppy (or kitten) just like her. FACT: A dog or cat may be a great pet, but that doesn't mean her offspring will be a carbon copy. Professional animal breeders who follow generations of bloodlines can't guarantee they will get just what they want out of a particular litter. A pet owner's chances are even slimmer. In fact, an entire litter of puppies or kittens might receive all of a pet's (and her mate's) worst characteristics. MYTH: It's too expensive to have my pet spayed or neutered. FACT: The cost of spaying or neutering depends on the sex, size, and age of the pet, your veterinarian's fees, and a number of other variables. But whatever the actual price, spay or neuter surgery is a one-time cost-a relatively small cost when compared to all the benefits. It's a bargain compared to the cost of having a litter and ensuring the health of the mother and litter; two months of pregnancy and another two months until the litter is weaned can add up to significant veterinary bills and food costs if complications develop. Most importantly, it's a very small price to pay for the health of your pet and the prevention of the births of more unwanted pets. MYTH: I'll find good homes for all the puppies and kittens. FACT: You may find homes for all of your pet's litter. But each home you find means one less home for the dogs and cats in shelters who need good homes. Also, in less than one year's time, each of your pet's offspring may have his or her own litter, adding even more animals to the population. The problem of pet overpopulation is created and perpetuated one litter at a time.

• 10 Things you Should Never Give Your Pet

  1. Make no bones about it -- bones are bad for animals! Every year countless numbers of animals end up in the emergency room from being given bones by their owners, usually as a treat.
  
  The fact is that dogs are omnivores, not carnivores and most dogs and cats cannot tolerate bones. They can splinter or lodge in the intestinal tract with disastrous results, usually requiring surgery. They can also get stuck in their mouth or throat, which is just as dangerous. All bones are bad, including pork, chicken and beef. The next time you feel the urge to give your dog a bone, just make sure it's a milk bone or a nylabone. Your pet will love you for it.
  
  2. Chocolate can be lethal to pets because it contains theobromine, which causes increased heart rate, central nervous system stimulation and constriction of arteries. Clinical symptoms range from vomiting, diarrhea, restlessness, and excitability to cardiac failure, seizures and death. This can occur as quickly as four to six hours after ingestion. Baking chocolate is the worst because it contains the highest amount of theobromine.
  
  A potential lethal dose is only one pound of chocolate in a 16-pound dog. If your pet has gotten into chocolate you should contact your veterinarian immediately.
  
  3. Alcohol is also very bad for cats and dogs. It doesn't take much alcohol to intoxicate a pet. Animals will stagger and bump into things, hurting themselves, and it also causes them to urinate uncontrollably.
  
  In high doses, alcohol will suppress the central nervous, respiratory and cardiac systems and can lead to death. It is best to just give your pet water.
  
  4. Milk is also not good for animals because many of them are lactose intolerant and will develop diarrhea. Pets often lack the enzyme that is required to break down the sugar in milk and this can cause them to develop vomiting, diarrhea and other gastrointestinal symptoms.
  
  Even though they like it, especially cats, refrain from giving your pets milk.
  
  5. Ham and other salty meats and foods are very dangerous to pets. In addition to being high in fat, they are also very salty which can cause serious stomach ache or pancreatitis. Also, large breeds of dogs that eat salty food may drink too much water and develop a life-threatening condition called "bloat." This is where the stomach fills up with gas and within several hours may twist, causing the pet to die. Please avoid giving ham and salty foods to your pets.
  
  6. Onions are toxic to pets. They contain allyl propyl disulfide, which damages their red blood cells and can cause fatal consequences in animals. They may become anemic, weak and have trouble breathing. The best thing to do if your pet ingests onions is to get them to the vet right away.
  
  7. Caffeine is also bad for pets. It contains methylated xanthine that, like chocolate, stimulates the central nervous and cardiac systems and within several hours can cause vomiting, restlessness, heart palpitations and even death. So make sure your pets stay away from that early morning brew.
  
  8. Avocados are also bad for pets. First, they are really high in fat and can cause stomach upset, vomiting and even pancreatitis. Second, the pit is also toxic and can get lodged in the intestinal tract leading to a severe blockage, which may require surgery.
  
  9. It may come as a surprise to many that tuna fish is bad for cats. The feline heart muscle requires an amino acid called taurine to maintain normal strength and function. Regular tuna fish for humans does not have this amino acid and cats that eat too much tuna fish will develop heart problems. If you want to give your cats that taste of tuna that they love, just make sure it is tuna fish for cats which has this amino acid added.
  
  10. The latest study has found that raisins and grapes can lead to kidney failure in pets. Small dogs can also choke on grapes so it is best to just make sure that your pets eat a well-balanced diet that is formulated for their life stage.